I have eaten my way through quite a few Indian cities, but nothing quite set me up for what happened when a local pressed a hand-drawn food map into my hands in Ahmedabad’s old city and said, “Just follow this.” No further instructions, no explanations. Just a piece of paper covered in circled spots and dish names in hurried handwriting.
I decided to trust it completely, and it turned out to be one of the best decisions I made on that entire trip.
Manek Chowk: Where Breakfast Hits Differently
My experience began in the expansive and lively Manek Chowk, a bustling square in the middle of the walled city. From the busy market for spices and vegetables in the morning to a bustling restaurant district in the evening, Manek Chowk is the perfect place to start your day with breakfast.
I arrived at a stall that has been in operation for a very long time. I ordered my first plate of jalebi and fafda, which is the quintessential breakfast of Gujaratis. The jalebi that came to me was thick, warm, swimming in syrup, and had crisp edges that broke into deliciously sticky pieces of sweetness in the centre. The fafda (a crunchy snack made of chickpea flour) was served with a side of papaya chutney that created a delicious balance between all of the richness of the jalebi and the crunchiness of the fafda.
I enjoyed my meal at the stall, surrounded by many other people who have likely enjoyed this same breakfast at this same stall for their entire lives. I can fully understand why they continue to come back to this stall for breakfast.
Khambhat ni Pol: A Bowl of Khichdi Worth Crossing the City For
A short walk into the pols brought me to a small, no-fuss restaurant tucked inside the lanes near Khambhat ni Pol that my map had circled twice. It served khichdi, the comforting Gujarati preparation of rice and lentils slow-cooked together until deeply soft and satisfying.
This version arrived in a generous bowl, finished with a proper pour of ghee, accompanied by thick, tangy curd, a sharp lime pickle, and sliced raw onion on the side. The flavours were simple, warm, and exactly right.
It was the kind of food that has no pretence whatsoever and is completely wonderful because of it. I sat there longer than I planned to simply because I did not want to stop eating.
Mandvi ni Pol: Walking and Snacking Through Living History
As I explored the old city’s streets of Mandvi Ni Pol, I held a paper cone filled with hot, freshly made bhajiya, which, from my experience, is the perfect way to take in this part of the city. Bhajiya is essentially a fritter filled with onion, green chilli or spinach, and deep-fried to order. It’s perfectly seasoned with salt and served hot.
Bhajiya makes the best snack to eat while you are walking and does not require your attention, so you are able to focus on the beautiful, intricately carved wood facades that line the streets. Some of these wood facades are hundreds of years old, and the details of the woodworking are breathtaking up close.
Eating warm foods while walking past the historical architecture provides a very relaxing feeling and gives the entire experience an authentic and genuine quality.
Old City Lanes: The Gujarati Thali That Refused to End
For lunch, a thali restaurant that I saw on the map was located off one of the main pol lanes. It is a restaurant where there are large, shared tables, the staff is moving quickly, and you don’t need a menu to order food. A traditional Gujarati thali consists of a tray of small bowls containing excellent quality dals, kadhi (an Indian curry sauce), two or three types of vegetables, rice, soft rotli, and a variety of side dishes and sweets changing with the seasons.
The dal was mildly sweet, as is commonly found in a traditional Gujarati style; the Kadhi was smooth, fragrant from the mustard and curry Leaf, and the rotlis were hot and freshly cooked on the tava (a flat iron plate) throughout.
Practical Things Worth Knowing
Ahmedabad’s old city is best explored on foot, and October to March gives you the most comfortable weather for it. The city is well connected by rail and air, and good accommodation fills up fast during peak season and the famous January kite festival.
It is worth booking your hotels in Ahmedabad early to avoid any last-minute issues. Decent options go fast, especially around the kite festival in January. One day in the old city will give you an enjoyable experience, but if you have a food map as good as mine, two days will be even better.
